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I stood in Senate Square with 30,000 others watching St. Lucia descend Helsinki Cathedral's steps. Here's what you need to know before you go.
Yes, visiting Helsinki in winter is absolutely worth it—even if you've been postponing it for years like I did.
I took the plunge on a trip to the home of my ancestors—Finland. The plan? A German Christmas market layover in Frankfurt, then north to Helsinki. What I found: unseasonably warm December weather, a walkable city center, and locals who were happy to see tourists.
After exploring as a first-timer, here's what you need to know.
Inside Frankfurt's Römerberg Christmas Market—what makes it special, the glühwein mug tradition, and why that giant pretzel was worth the hype.